Steve La Rosa: As you know, this is our “green issue.” I’m going way, way out on a limb here. You’re Irish, right?
Patrick Mulvaney: There you go. It starts with the Bells of Ireland (points to the Moluccella laevis in the vase behind us).
SL: Lucky guess. Well, then, it follows that anthropologically, socially and culturally, you’re predisposed to be green, and in that sense, qualified to be in our green issue.
PM: I guess it’s from the time I was a child, marching up 5th Avenue in New York on St. Paddy’s Day.
SL: Were you consuming fossil fuels?
PM: No, unless Guinness is considered a fossil fuel. I was on foot.
SL: So, are you still “green?”
PM: Yes, because who I am coincides with what is green…local seasonal produce and local meats and olive oils, etc. All our bottles and cardboard are recycled. Some of that might be my parsimonious Irish heritage. If we get a duck, we use it all in various dishes. I don’t even like to see butter burned, because you dishonor the people who worked so hard to produce it. We even put excess food outside for the homeless. In return, they keep an eye out for our property.
SL: Does it make dollar sense to be green?
PM: Yes. And it’s important to me because it falls in line with our restaurant philosophy. We take care of people here.
SL: Are the green efforts new to you?
PM: It’s been an evolution. Growing up, we recycled our newspapers. We keep an eye out that our food vendors are gentle stewards of the earth. I live ten blocks away, so I get to walk or ride my bike to work.
SL: And the question most hated by chefs – describe your cuisine?
PM: What the farmers bring in the front door goes on your plate.
SL: Where does your produce come from?
PM: I’m a “locovore.” I live in California because of the farmers and vendors who supply our produce and meats. I love that we get to share that with our guests.
SL: Do you cook at home?
PM: No. I did make an egg on a roll yesterday.
SL: I must get the recipe. Where do you dine upscale?
PM: Waterboy. Mason’s. Kru.
SL: Favorite dives?
PM: Pho Bac Hoa Viet. Luigi’s for pizza. The Squeeze Inn.
SL: Where did you earn your stripes?
PM: The Waterville Lake Hotel in County Kerry, Ireland, with Sean Kinsella, who was trained at the Ritz in Paris. It was eight months of being yelled at every day and being fired five times.
SL: Favorite film?
PM: It’s a Wonderful Life, because it’s the story of someone who realizes the importance of having an impact on the place where you live. In the movie, it was Bailey’s Building & Loan. That’s why I named this place Mulvaney’s Building & Loan.
SL: Can you do a decent J-J-J-Jimmy Stewart?
PM: No. I have trouble doing a decent Patrick Mulvaney.
SL: What’s the hardest thing about running a restaurant?
PM: Keeping an eye on all the tentacles. I have to entrust myself to the whole staff, and in turn, trust them. The kitchen is open so the cooks are afforded the respect they deserve.
SL: One gets the sense that, for you, the experience transcends just running a restaurant.
PM: Right. This is my dream. I have to continually ensure that the dream comes true.
SL: Celebrity encounters?
PM: I like to point out the vendor or grower who might be dining here to people who compliment the food. One time I got to introduce a busboy, who is a drummer, to the drummer from Tower of Power. He was in our banquet room, and hooked him up with some passes.
SL: Strangest request?
PM: A raw steak. The guy ate it.
SL: Hobbies?
PM: Salumi-making (cured Italian meats). My basement is full of aging meats.
SL: Growing up, did you own an Easy-Bake Oven by Hasbro?
PM: No. As a child, I preferred Julia Child to Romper Room. I asked my Mom whether that was a man or a woman onscreen.
SL: What if I said your kitchen appears loose, but the product is tight?
PM: If tight means good, as opposed to tightly structured, yes, but not so tight that there isn’t room for improvement.
SL: LuxLife extravagance?
PM: Good Champagne and pampering my fiancée, Bobbin.
SL: What is the LuxLife to you?
PM: Being able to go out to eat with my sweetie or dining with friends and family and not having to do the dishes.
SL: Favorite anecdote?
PM: My Dad got “lucky” once when he showed up at one of my restaurants and was told the dining room was full. He dropped my name and was shown a table right away. Apparently, later, his date showed her appreciation. It worked so well for him that he repeated the routine many times thereafter.
SL: What are you doing on St. Patrick’s Day?
PM: It’s a Monday. We’re closed. I’ll be celebrating at some Irish pub.
Mulvaney’s Green Salsa: This pairs beautifully with grilled meats and vegetables.
Ingredients:
• One bunch of greens (parsley, arugula, a sprig of mint)
• 2 cloves of garlic, mashed
• 1 large shallot, minced
• 1 tablespoon capers
• Juice of one lemon
• 2 ounces extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper
Preparation:
Chiffonade the greens, mix together with the rest of the ingredients and season with salt and pepper. The salsa should be fairly thick. Adjust lemon, oil, salt and pepper according to taste. Relax and experiment, remember cooking is supposed to be fun! Serve immediately. You can also make this a day ahead – add lemon juice just prior to serving.
