We heard the worst: Masque was closing, so we had to check it out for ourselves. We sent Steve LaRosa to meet with the head chef, Ezio Gamba.
Steve La Rosa: Your doors are open! What was with the rumors of your demise?
Ezio Gamba: After Nick and Angelo left, people thought the restaurant was going underwater, but behind Masque is a powerful person who never loses in his life. He never gives up.
SL: Was there a slump?
EG: It slowed down for a bit, but since December, things are back to normal. People are saying that the food has never been better.
SL: Your last name is Gamba. That’s Italian for what?
EG: Leg.
SL: Oh, as in “nice gams.”
EG: Huh?
SL: Watch some of those “swell” black and white Turner Classic Movies from the ‘40s. You’ll understand.
SL: So, which part of Italy are you from?
EG: Bergamo, in Northern Italy. Close to Milan.
SL: What brought you to the States?
EG: I was a chef in Italy. I got a job in Fresno.
SL: Ah! The gateway to Bakersfield!
SL: How many years have you chefed [not a real word]?
EG: I graduated from culinary school in San Pellegrino in 1989 and have worked in many restaurants since then.
SL: How do you describe your cuisine?
EG: Contemporary Italian. A revision of classic cuisine.
SL: What do you want your customers to know about Masque?
EG: We’re not stuffy. I’ll do whatever the customers want. If they want a pizza, I’ll make it. Bring the family, the kids – everybody. We’ll take care of them. Some people think Masque is too sophisticated. I wish they could meet the guys in the kitchen. They’re good guys. I work seven days a week because I enjoy them.
SL: What’s different on your watch?
EG: We’re doing dinners in the kitchen, with up to 10 customers dining on up to 10 courses.
SL: How do they like it?
EG: Some like to be entertained, others don’t. We have live music on Thursday and Friday. Last time, the guitarist came into the kitchen and played for them.
SL: Had any tough customers?
EG: Not here. But in L.A., Barbara Streisand came to my restaurant every Monday night, and kept sending her salad back until she liked it.
SL: Any superstar celebs come into Masque?
EG: All of them.
SL: (Cracks up)
EG: All my customers are superstars!
SL: OK, speaking of artistry – tell me about art and food.
EG: A lot of people ask me, “Where do I get my recipes?”
SL: And your answer?
EG: I like color, so each of my dishes looks like a Picasso.
SL: What other local restaurants do you patronize?
EG: The Waterboy and Mulvaney’s Building & Loan.
SL: Your favorite restaurant movie?
EG: Tequila Sunrise with Mel Gibson and Kurt Russell. It was filmed at Valentino, where I worked in Los Angeles. They named the bartender after the real bartender, Arturo, who I worked with.
SL: Your favorite restaurant TV show?
EG: I like No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain. He’s a chef that travels around the world and tries different cuisines. He drinks and smokes like crazy.
SL: Are you anything like him?
EG: I’m the same. I wish I could be him.
Masque Ristorante is located at 3909 Park Drive, El Dorado Hills. For reservations, call 916-933-8555 or visit the Web site at
masqueristorante.com.
