After the holidays have gone, a wintry hush and holy stillness settle over Yosemite National Park. It is, by any standard, a most magical and enchanting time to visit. On peaceful walks along the Valley floor, you can easily imagine John Muir’s first sighting of these granite domes and thundering waterfalls. In the chill of the day, under sapphire skies, the howls of coyotes drift across the Valley and mingle with mist floating above the meadows.
During this season, Yosemite’s waterfalls come roaring back to life, courtesy of winter snows and rain. Any visit should include a hike to Yosemite Falls — you will shiver at your core, and not just because of the cold temperature. Stream-fed by Yosemite Creek, the voice of Yosemite Falls is a constant at this time of year. The reality that this is the highest waterfall in North America is drowned out by the crashing din. “It’s overwhelming – dizzying,” says one couple. “The word ‘awesome’ simply isn’t enough.” In the morning chill, early risers are treated to snow showers created by the fall’s spray.
During the warmer months, visitors from around the world flock to Yosemite. This generates more traffic, which makes getting lodging reservations, especially within the Park, more challenging. Post-summer and autumn, the visitor tide ebbs, heralding an unhurried transition into frosty hibernation. Following the major holidays, Yosemite settles down for a winter nap. Less traffic in, out and around the park is a big plus, not to mention that accommodations are much more attainable. There are also a number of great winter and special event packages, so do check ahead (YosemitePark.com).
The majestic lady of Yosemite is The Ahwahnee. Dressed in winter finery, this celebrated four-diamond resort perches grandly amid the pines and by the granite Royal Arches. The Ahwahnee’s regal architectural details combine the best of the Art Deco and Arts and Crafts movements with a splash of Native American and Middle Eastern influences. Spacious common areas, 99 elegantly appointed rooms and 24 cottages offer exceptional romantic appeal. Hotel rooms have stunning views of Half Dome, Glacier Point and Lower Yosemite Falls – there’s not a bad outlook in the house.
Sun-drenched days in the Valley can be warm, but any time is optimal for snuggling in front of a roaring fire. The Ahwahnee’s massive stone fireplaces and comfortable lounges offer perfect reprieves from the cold temperatures. These days, guests like Linda and Brad Kliger retreat to the Great Lounge, not just for the warmth and relaxation, but for the ability to stay connected via their laptops, thanks to the Wi-Fi.
“They wait on you hand and foot,” say the Kligers. While celebrating their 29th wedding anniversary, they both agree that, “If we could only go to one place, it would be Yosemite.”
Yosemite Village is an easy walk or shuttle ride from The Ahwahnee and other Valley lodgings. Leave your vehicle parked during your stay and take advantage of the Park’s environmentally-friendly transit. Snow doesn’t stay long on the Valley floor, so walks and hikes are always possible. You don’t have to be a rugged outdoors person to enjoy Yosemite. Walk outside and you’ll see things you won’t find anywhere else on earth – just come for the peace and quiet. There’s plenty of that in winter!
Besides the usual seasonal pursuits, indulge in a little retail therapy at hotel gift shops and the amazing Ansel Adams Gallery. Interpretive displays at the Yosemite Museum depict the rich heritage of the Valley and its native people. Storytelling and basket-weaving demonstrations by the celebrated Julia Parker, a Kashia Pomo Indian who has worked for more than 50 years at Yosemite, are awe-inspiring and should not be missed.
The Ahwahnee: Food, Glorious Food!
Special experiences are a given in Yosemite. This is particularly true during Yosemite’s Chefs’ Holidays®, undeniably a “build it and they will come” concept. January would be Yosemite’s quietest month of the year were it not for the influx of foodand wine-minded guests; many return specifically to attend this gourmet bonanza.
Over the course of four weeks and eight sessions, acclaimed chefs from around the country come to The Ahwahnee to practice their culinary arts. Each session features a “Meet the Chefs” reception, free cooking classes and demonstrations, and kitchen tours where you can visit The Ahwahnee’s pantry and inhale fresh-baked breads and desserts. The astonishing Chef’s Gala Dinner is certain to send you into a gastronomic coma as five courses of earthly delights, paired with complementing wines, are crafted and prepared by each session’s guest chef. Bejeweled by tapered candlelight, there couldn’t be a more beautiful setting then The Ahwahnee’s stately dining room.
Chef’s Holiday for 2008 features chefs from as close as Walnut Creek and as far away as Portland, Maine. It includes three renowned San Francisco chefs – Traci Des Jardins, Chris Cosentino and Gavin Kaysen – who recently competed on the Food Network’s The Next Iron Chef. Sessions encompass everything from sustainable and organic philosophies to Food & Wine magazine’s “Best New Chefs.”
In February, there’s a special menu for Valentine’s Day – a four- or five-course dinner that includes favorite romance foods: lobster, oysters, filet mignon and, of course, chocolate! Except for holiday weekends, February has no scheduled events, so it’s exceedingly quiet; another outstanding reason for a Yosemite breather.
Ultimate Escapes
Yearning to unwind and avoid the last vestiges of winter crowds in Yosemite Valley, but still want endless distractions? Head to the Wawona Hotel. It’s a true escape to the days of old: No T.V. No phones. And no Wi-Fi – what madness! Whether romance or family time is on the agenda, the Victorian-era Wawona Hotel provides the best of all possibilities. Located in the southern end of the park, this oldest of Yosemite accommodations (a National Historic Landmark) is reminiscent of a gentle southern belle, offering the epitome of hospitality. There’s a great winter menu that highlights local organic and seasonal foods, and a full breakfast is included with all rooms. Some rooms are European-style so, if you prefer, specify en-suite.
Evergreen Lodge, outside the Park boundaries, offers couples and families a rare opportunity to enjoy a little visited and secluded corner of Yosemite National Park. Down Evergreen Road, beyond pastoral scenery festooned in snow, Hetch Hetchy is waiting. While surrounding landscapes may be winter white, Hetch Hetchy is frequently spring-like and otherworldly. You’ll delight in fern grottos, sunlit granite, crashing waterfalls and tree-frog wetlands. The bonus is that you can hike for hours undisturbed by other day-trippers.
Built in 1921, the main lodge at Evergreen houses a historic tavern and restaurant. After a day of hiking or skiing, a steaming bowl of 10-bean soup, elk tenderloin with shiitake butter and white truffle mashed potatoes will definitely fill the hunger void. Then you can retire to the Great Room for roaring fires, s’mores, free Internet and classic films. New York honeymooners, Kahdijah and Alistair, enjoyed five nights at Evergreen. “It’s amazing,” says Kahdijah, “we love it! Evergreen has a faraway feeling and we can still spend time in the Park.” A variety of fully furnished cabins and cottages accommodate up to six guests (EvergreenLodge.com).
In or out of the Park, at Wawona or Evergreen, you’ll enjoy all the customary snow activities. Wawona provides a free daily shuttle to Badger Pass Ski Area. If there’s significant snow at Wawona, people cross-country ski on the golf course across the road. The Pioneer History Center and Wawona Covered Bridge are excellent self-guided excursions during the winter.
The road is closed to the Mariposa Grove, but you can still hike, cross-country ski or snowshoe to visit the giant sequoias. Evergreen Lodge offers a Guided Snowshoe Walk of Mariposa Grove, and a Rim of the Valley Snowshoe Walk that guarantees incomparable views of Yosemite Valley. Additional snowshoe outings, including a Moonlight Equinox Trek, are available through the Yosemite Association (YA). Outdoor devotees have access to the best naturalists in the Park through YA, especially in winter. “I’m a winter sports enthusiast,” says Peter Divine, Educational Programs Director, YA, “so my season is coming!” (Yosemite.org).
Get Your Badger Pass On
Like an old friend, Badger Pass Ski Area is quaint and welcoming, especially if it’s your first visit. Generations of parents and children have cut their skiing teeth at Badger Pass, California’s oldest downhill ski area. With more than 85 percent of the slopes devoted to beginner and intermediate levels, this is understandable. There’s no friendlier place for the little ones than the Badger Pups Program that offers customized instruction for ages four to six. The sundeck at Badger Pass answers all your wintertime prayers. After spending a few hours on the slopes or trails, you’ll be ready to enjoy a picnic lunch and soak up some sun, all in full view of the downhill daredevils. After refueling and relaxing, embrace your sillier side with a little snow tubing or some terrain park action.
When reserving at The Ahwahnee, Yosemite Lodge at the Falls, Curry Village or Wawona Hotel, Stay ‘n’ Play Packages and the Badger FUN Pass offer a variety of ways to enjoy the best snow-time activities. Check at the Tour and Activity Desk or with the concierge for more options.
Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing experiences in and around Badger Pass are both scenic and serene. Miles of groomed trails and fresh powder are unsurpassed, even for first-timers. For those with true gusto, the 10-plus mile trek to Glacier Point Ski Hut will reward you with stellar views of Yosemite Valley. Excursions to the rustic stone and log lodge include lodging, meals and layover activities. Experiencing Yosemite’s wintry-white back country and starlit skies? Well, that’s simply priceless.
As if all of this weren’t enough, the ideal ending to this perfect Yosemite story must include a spin on the ice rink at Curry Village. Voted a top-10, this ice-covered dream has it all: skating beneath the splendor of Half Dome and Glacier Point, the warmth of an outdoor fire ring and scrumptious winter s’mores. And so the story ends – happily ever after.
