My husband works in the movie business, and when the Lord of the Rings franchise set up shop in New Zealand several years ago, rumors began to circulate that weary industry types were increasingly staying on in the other Land Down Under rather than returning to the land of smog and traffic. And why not? As a country with a total population of just over four million, the land/people/sheep ratio in New Zealand translates to plenty of room for the human soul to expand and unwind, perhaps while dining on some superb lamb chops paired with an Otago pinot noir.
While the influx of Americans and American capital has been the subject of some understandable Kiwi concern, the good news is that hospitality remains one of the country’s top industries, and getting there has never struggles against its over-valued Kiwi counsuperb range of choices for the discriminat been easier. While the anemic U.S. dollar ing food and wine enthusiast at relatively terpart, New Zealand, nevertheless, offers a in New Zealand is hotter than ever, with an affordable prices. And the wine industry explosion of new wineries, unique microclimates and brand-new regions to explore beyond its hallmark sauvignon blanc.
It was, however, sauvignon blanc and, specifically, Cloudy Bay that first launched New Zealand onto the world wine stage. Now owned by luxury conglomerate LVMH, Cloudy Bay introduced a distinctly green and herbaceous style of sauvignon blanc that to this day is a polarizing product; one either adores this kind of wine or hates it. But fortunately for winemakers in Marlborough, its fans have tipped the scales. New Zealand sauvignon blanc is a certifiable, mass-market hit. But what’s really exciting about New Zealand these days is the ascendancy of European-style, terroir-driven winemaking, in which grape and land are allowed to mutually inform each other with enlightened planting and better wine as the result. This stands in contrast to that California mindset which for years forced grape on place, according to consumption trends, such that treasures like old vine zinfandel were torn out in favor of yet more acres of cabernet, chardonnay and merlot. Perhaps because New Zealand is a land of such dramatic climate contrasts, its winemakers have been more open to grape experimentation from the outset with happy results now coming online. From the killer syrahs of Waiheke Island to Central Otago’s world-class pinot noirs to promising aromatic varieties like gewürztraminer and riesling, there is definitely wine life beyond the Bay.
With the majority of international flights landing in Auckland, the nation’s largest city, make your first foray the ferry ride over to nearby Waiheke Island, which has been described as rather like Nantucket, but with fabulous wine and fewer pink pants. Waiheke first made itself known to me, in rather humbling fashion, at a blind tasting five years ago in which I zealously declared a syrah from this mysterious little island to be nothing short of a Chave Hermitage, and a 1989 at that. So much for the fancy sommelier’s nose! But I was astounded at the quality and varietal richness of this syrah, and other bottlings over the years have confirmed my suspicion that something pretty remarkable is being grown over there in Waiheke. Nowadays, the island offers nearly 120 wineries but remains something of an artists’ enclave. Check in at the superb Delamore Lodge, whose panoramic views and in-house spa make it one of the North Island’s most luxurious accommodations. Plan to stop in at Sandbar, in the Oneroa district, where you can sample an array of Waiheke’s local wines by-the-glass and learn about food and wine pairing done the Kiwi way as part of their guest winemaker series at the restaurant.
At the southernmost tip of the North Island lies the capital of Wellington, a charming city that is close in size to San Francisco with a food and wine vibe all its own. Wellington provides an easy jumping-off point to head east to Wairarapa, a wine-producing region that has grown exponentially in recent years and whose name is Maori for “Land of Glistening Waters.” About an hour-and-a-half east from the capital lies Martinborough, one of the most important towns in the Wairarapa, where one finds distinct pinot noirs that have more in common with their moody Burgundian counterparts than with sunny California bottlings. Check out the pinots from Ata Rangi, where owner Clive Patton first planted pinot noir in 1980, and those made by Larry McKenna at Escarpment Vineyards. Larry is widely considered to be the “dean of New Zealand pinot noir”, and his wines are remarkable. Wine explorations in the Wairarapa also bring you near to what may be the most fabulous place to stay in all of New Zealand, the Wharekauhau Country Estate. Located on a working 5000-acre sheep station with spectacular views of Palliser Bay, Wharekauhau offers a unique blend of nature and luxury. You can opt for a wide array of outdoor adventures or simply relax in your private cottage overlooking the ocean as the hotel brings the finest of New Zealand’s produce and wines to you via its award-winning restaurant.
If pinot noir is your passion, you’ll also want to head down to the South Island, where the world’s most southerly wine-growing region, Central Otago, is emerging into the spotlight. The climate is extreme and the growing season short, so ripening pinot noir at all is sometimes a challenge, but for the growers doing it right, the results are spectacular. Start your journey in Queenstown, but consider renting a car to explore the main towns and vineyards of “Central” as the locals call it. The natural scenery alone in this part of New Zealand makes any wine pilgrimage worthwhile, and the view of Lake Wanaka from the Ripon Vineyard has often been cited as the most beautiful vineyard site in all the world. Some of my personal favorite wineries in the Central Otago district include Felton Road, Mt. Difficulty and Carrick; the riesling from the latter was a revelation when I tasted it recently. And if ultimate luxury is your goal while traveling, to the west one finds the much-heralded Blanket Bay Resort, which has frequently been cited as the top accommodation in all of Australasia.
Living in the Golden State means we are blessed with our own fine winegrowing regions coupled with spectacular national parks, but a visit to New Zealand, which prides itself on remaining clean and green, may just remind you that we’ve lost some of that pristine quality here in California. Pack heavy when you go, as you may just want to stay – the mountains, the food, the ocean, the air and the wines are that good.
