Truly one of the most memorable ways to celebrate Valentine’s Day is by sharing an exceptional meal with the one you love. In the spirit of this holiday for sweethearts, meet John Clark and Gayle Pirie, chefs/proprietors of San Francisco’s Foreign Cinema.
Introduced during a concurrent turn at the now-shuttered Vicolo Pizzera, the pair rapidly became vital, creative contributors to the San Francisco dining scene. An appreciation for purity and quality of their cuisine, tenures with some of the area’s most acclaimed restaurants, and a subsequent restaurant concept consulting practice in North America and Asia left Pirie and Clark perfectly poised to take over the fledgling Foreign Cinema just one year after its inception.
“Our predecessors thought of the concept, and we have since supplied a solid restaurant ethic to a charming idea,” says Pirie. “Solid” may perhaps be the understatement of the year. While the destination concept of the restaurant may be “dinner and a show” – thanks to the interesting lineup of films and retro drive-in theatre speakers that surround the open-air courtyard – the real theater is the drama that plays out on your table.
A meal at Foreign Cinema is best described as poetry on a plate.
At a recent meal, each fresh, perfectly prepared course was met with the “ooohs” and “aaahs” usually reserved for fireworks displays and Olympic feats. The full oyster bar and beyond-expansive wine list merely hint at the pleasures to come. As with love, however, one must exhibit patience. This is an experience meant to be savored.
Those tempted to dive headlong into the menu will do well to consult the knowledgeable wait staff, who will eagerly offer suggestions from wine pairings to complementary dish pairings. The smooth celery root and mutsu apple soup and baked fromage d’affinois are divine ways to begin the dining adventure.
The delicate aromas of each successive dish will very nearly leave you breathless. The gentle melding of flavors in the lavender-infused pork chop and the simple preparation of caramelized Brussels sprouts will certainly inspire expressions of love. That is, if your partner can handle being shown up by a meal.
Clark and Pirie view cooking together as the ultimate collaboration. Picture the sensual appeal of two sets of hands stirring, chopping and tasting the meal, paired with the many scents and flavors, and you’ll immediately understand how two chefs can create a perfect partnership. In their 20 years together, they’ve shared meals all over the world, but the ones closest to their hearts are those shared at home.
“When John and I are in the mood to treat ourselves to a night in, we go straight for the caviar and champagne, because they are all you really need. It’s non-fussy and the perfect way to indulge,” says Pirie.
Duck with Tart Cherry and Port Sauce (From Williams Sonoma Bride & Groom Cookbook: Recipes for Cooking Together by John Clark and Gayle Pirie)
Ingredients:
• 1/4 cup hazelnuts (optional)
• 2-1/2 cups prepared veal stock or
chicken stock
• 4 boneless duck breasts, skin on,
about 6 ounces each
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• Kosher salt and pepper
For the Cherry and Port Sauce:
• 2 tablespoons dried tart cherries or
cranberries
• 1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar or
red wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup Ruby port
If using the hazelnuts, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast until golden and fragrant, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool slightly, then wrap in a clean kitchen towel and rub gently to remove the skins. Chop coarsely and set aside.
Meanwhile, to make the cherryport sauce, combine the cherries, vinegar, port and stock in a saucepan. Shimmer the mixture over medium heat until reduced by half, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Trim any extra skin hanging over the edges of the duck breasts. Turn the breasts skin side up and make four shallow incisions diagonally across the breast skin. The slices should be about 1/8 inch deep into the skin only; take care not to cut into the breast meat. Create a crosshatch pattern by making a second set of four diagonal incisions in the opposite direction.
Season the duck breasts liberally with salt and pepper on both sides.
Heat a cast-iron frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is very hot, add the duck breasts, skin side down. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook without turning until the skin is nicely browned and plenty of fat is rendered, 10 to 12 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, turn the duck breasts over, and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the duck breasts reads 140 degrees; for medium-rare, four to five minutes more. For medium to well done, cook the duck until it registers 160 to 165 degrees; five to ten minutes more. Transfer the duck breasts to a platter and let rest, loosely covered with foil, for 10 minutes.
While the duck rests, reheat the cherryport sauce. Cut each duck breast into thin slices and arrange the slices on four warmed plates. Spoon the sauce over the duck slices and sprinkle with the hazelnuts, if using. Serve at once. Serves four.
Note: For even better flavor, season the duck breasts one or two days in advance and store them, covered, in the refrigerator.
