Mulvaney’s Building and Loan
The sign on the door reads, “Mulvaney’s Building and Loan” with a sub-heading that proclaims “An American Restaurant.” I asked Patrick Mulvaney to elaborate on his cuisine.
“If you want the pompous answer,” he replied, “it’s a reflection of the glorious mosaic that is our country. Or (the unpretentious answer) whatever comes through the back door goes on your plate.”
It was at once a poetic and unassuming yet apropos description of the Mulvaney experience. The artist-in-residence (my description) prides himself on employing local food and produce vendors, resulting in a menu that is consistently fresh, in concept and product.
The menu here changes constantly. There are drastic changes at the beginning of each week, and 20 percent of the menu changes daily. As an interesting sidebar, Mulvaney confided that he didn’t create his first menu until the week before opening. He and his kitchen crew will often inventory what comes in from the fields and build a dish around it. Though his menu features starters, small plates, large plates and desserts, this is one of those rare establishments where you’d have no trepidation ignoring the menu and telling the waiter to surprise you.
Let me blow a couple of the surprises. Lambsickles (think meat popsicles) – roasted with rosemary, garlic and salsa verde. Just one of the complimentary amuse bouches (amuse the mouth) Mulvaney offers his guests.
Here are some of his offerings: halibut saltimbocca – an interesting twist on the typical veal, wrapped in prosciutto with a little sage; homemade (perhaps by Dane, the Pastafarian) buccatini pasta with fresh sautéed hen of the woods mushrooms. Delicious; abalone strips sautéed in brown butter with Meyer lemon. Cooked to perfection. Tender and full of flavor.
The service is professional/casual and the atmosphere, in what was a firehouse with engines and genuine, hoofed horsepower, is reflective of Mulvaney’s “come to my table and enjoy yourself” style: cozy and comfortable. The best seat (not including the patio) of the 49 in the house is right next to the pantry station where a lot of the prep work can be observed. It’s not uncommon to see Mulvaney himself working, nay, playing the room with a smile and a handshake for all.
The check is brought in one of the books from the B&L Library. Patrons are encouraged to sign it and leave a message. Where else in this town can you eat this well and feel so damn good? Which, by the way, speaks to the name discussion. Obviously, Mulvaney couldn’t name the place The Firehouse. So, he borrowed the line from the end of It’s A Wonderful Life, when Jimmy Stewart hollers, “Hello, you old building and loan!”
This leads me to add to Mulvaney’s description with a Capra-esque depiction – his restaurant is a reflection of the heart, artistry and talent of Mr. M himself.
1215 19th Street, Sacramento
916-441-6022
